Wednesday, February 13, 2019

Aligoté from Burgundy

There is a concept of Old World and New World in wine.
Old world is, basically Europe, where wine has been produced and consumed for long time.
New world is everywhere else, like US, Australia, or Chile.

In practical point of view, one of the big differences of new and old world is whether there is a strict regulation about permitted grape. These grapes grown on the terroir of old world for long time have become like a synonym to the region such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux, or Sangiovese and Chianti.

Burgundy has its famous synonymous grapes: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But there are other grapes which are permitted in Burgundy.
White grape Aligoté is used for the regional wine of Burgundy.
Wine from Aligoté has fresh aromas of flower and fruit, and is meant to be drunk young. 
Aligoté is not particularly picky about the growing condition, and grown on lesser vineyards (best sites are saved for Chardonnay). This and less recognition can mean Aligoté wine is much more affordable.

There was an event to taste this white Burgundy wine, potentially a good alternative to Chardonnay.



Domaine Catherine et Claude Marechal Bourgogne Aligoté 2017
The wine with concentrated fruit aromas is made from 40 or more year old vines.
Honeysuckle, acacia, fresh melon, peach, green apple and citrus aromas. Soft acid.
It's fresh, clean wine.

Caves Bailly-Lapierre Bourgogne Aligoté 2016
Nectar-like fruit of apple and peach.
Lean, light bodied wine with smooth texture.

Domaine Manuel Oliver Bourgogne Aligoté 2016
Acacia, jasmine, ripe citrus and peach.
High minerality, almost saline.


Domaine Pierre-Louis et Jean-Francois Bersan Bourgogne Aligoté 2015
Aromas of green apple and pear.
Delicate wine with soft texture.

Maison Louis Jadot Bouzeron 2015
Aligote aged in new oak.
Fresh Asian pear, hazelnut, smoke and cedar. Refreshing acid.

Domaine Les Champs de Themis Les Corcelles Bouzeron 2016
White flower, pear, peach and apple.
Round texture with long finish.

Bouzeron is a village in Cote Chalonnaise, only village appellation made from Aligoté.

There is a reason that Chardonnay is the principal grape of white Burgundy. It's harder to find good Aligoté than good Chardonnay. 
My first positive encounter with Aligoté was when it was recommended at Kermit Lynch (importer/retailer) some years ago. It was strikingly lovable. I immediately went back to the store to get more but it was already sold out. The wine was that good.
So, the best way to find good Aligoté is to ask wine shops. Or, find one of the bottles I tasted this day. These are all good, aromatic wine with body and soft acid, and good food wine, especially with seafood and vegetables.

Tuesday, February 5, 2019

Bordeaux 2016 Vintage

There are many things which can define the character of wine: grape variety, soil, climate, timing of harvest, or of course wine making techniques.

Vintage is also a big factor. According to wine journalist Jacky Rigaux, terroir determines the wine's originality and the vintage determines the quality of wine.
However, it is hard for me to grasp the sense of vintage, probably because it changes every year or a relation of a cause and effect involved in vintage is too complicated. Or probably because I'm not good with numbers.

There was a tasting of Bordeaux Grand Cru Classe 2016 vintage in San Francisco. Perfect opportunity to taste wines from the same vintage. It was wet at the beginning of the year and summer was very hot in 2016 Bordeaux. Hopefully I can grasp at least a tiny bit of the idea of vintage.

There were classified wines from all over Bordeaux, and these are the wines memorable to me.



Chateau Giscours Margaux 2016
Cherry, raspberry, chocolate, hints of pyrazine.
Wine is powerful yet decent and approachable.



Chateau Prieure-Lichine Margaux 2016
A chateau founded by monks in 12th century.
Red plum, raspberry, herb and soft tannin.
Pretty wine, makes me feel like dancing!



Chateau Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien 2016
A second growth in 1855 Bordeaux Classification.
Red fruit, coffee candy and spice.
Tannin is smooth and the texture is soft.
The label design might not be modern but gives a sense of old days' elegance, and the wine tastes like its label.



Chateau Talbot Saint-Julien 2016
Pleasant aromas of red fruit, flower and herbs.
The wine is with fine-grained tannin and very approachable.
It is hard not to like this wine!



Chateau de Pez Saint-Estephe 2016
The beautiful chateau was originally a hunting lodge then expanded to produce wine. Now it is owned by the champagne house Louis Roederer.
Fresh aromas of red fruit and flower are backed by notes of coffee.
It is firm wine with strong but fine tannin. Very enjoyable.



Chateau Phelan Segur Saint-Estephe 2016
Aromatic wine with fresh and dried floral, cherry, cranberry characters.
Strong tannin presence, which is more reliable than aggressive.



Chateau Clarke Listrac-Medoc 2016
Listrac is a commune in Medoc, lesser known than other big names like Margaux or St-Julien. High water table in the area and shallow root system as its result work as disadvantage, but this wine proves that great wine can be made under such a condition.

A little unusual for Medoc, majority of the grape in this blend is Merlot.
Notes of ripe red fruit, spice, coffee.
Clean, full-bodied wine with gripping tannin.



Chateau La Lagune Haut-Medoc 2016
A third growth in 1855 Bordeaux Classification.
Beautiful aromas of fresh cherry, plum and purple flower.
Bitter sweet coffee-like after taste.

There were also beautiful white wines.


Chateau Carbonnieux Pessac-Leognan 2016
A chateau of long history with the Benedictine monks as the first owner.
Refreshing citrus and tropical fruit notes with savory characters of lees.
Long, clean finish.


Chateau Olivier Pessac-Leognan 2016
Candied citrus, melon and peach.
Delicate wine with strong finish.

The characteristics of vintage is still vague for me, but I felt a difference.
Overall impression, St-Julian was most memorable for 2016. At the last years tasting, which was the tasting of 2015, I found Margaux most attractive.
Even though I don't understand how, but I must have had detected the difference between vintages.