Madeira wine is a fortified wine from island of Madeira, Portugal.
Madeira wine might have a lower profile comparing with other fortified wines like Port or Sherry, but it has a unique feature.
Madeira wine goes through a process called Canteiro.
After fortification, wine is matured in a cask for minimum two years in the warm area. The finest example would be aged for some decades.
This process imitates its history: in the 17th century, ships heading to India from Europe picked up wines at the island of Madeira. After experiencing repeated heating and cooling during the ocean voyage, people found that the wine tasted better than the wine matured on the land.
Canteiro was developed to imitate this process.
There was a tasting of Madeira wine in San Francisco.
It was a rare occasion to get to taste so many Madeira wine, so there were many participants, even came from far away.
The styles of Madeira range from light and dry to sweet, full-bodied wine, but all of them have refreshing acidity. The volcanic soils of the island contribute to this.
Among the wineries, the producer most memorable for me was
Pereira d'Oliveira.
Sercial 1989 White flower of acacia. Acidity of citrus fruit.
Terrantez 1988 Interesting aroma of milk coffee and fruit zest.
Boal 1977 Rich sweetness of creme brulee and coffee. Freshness of citrus zest.
Malvasia 1990 Bitter-sweet burned caramel. Full-bodied.
Tinta Negra 1929
This one was gorgeous.
Espresso, coffee and leather.
High acidity is balanced with the sweetness of vanilla ice cream.
I have a sweet tooth but many of sweet wines, fortified or late-harvest, are too sweet even for me. But, somehow, I can fully enjoy the sweetness of Madeira wine.
Dry style has its character and becomes addictive.
They are good wines and I hope they become more popular.
