Wednesday, February 13, 2019

Aligoté from Burgundy

There is a concept of Old World and New World in wine.
Old world is, basically Europe, where wine has been produced and consumed for long time.
New world is everywhere else, like US, Australia, or Chile.

In practical point of view, one of the big differences of new and old world is whether there is a strict regulation about permitted grape. These grapes grown on the terroir of old world for long time have become like a synonym to the region such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux, or Sangiovese and Chianti.

Burgundy has its famous synonymous grapes: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But there are other grapes which are permitted in Burgundy.
White grape Aligoté is used for the regional wine of Burgundy.
Wine from Aligoté has fresh aromas of flower and fruit, and is meant to be drunk young. 
Aligoté is not particularly picky about the growing condition, and grown on lesser vineyards (best sites are saved for Chardonnay). This and less recognition can mean Aligoté wine is much more affordable.

There was an event to taste this white Burgundy wine, potentially a good alternative to Chardonnay.



Domaine Catherine et Claude Marechal Bourgogne Aligoté 2017
The wine with concentrated fruit aromas is made from 40 or more year old vines.
Honeysuckle, acacia, fresh melon, peach, green apple and citrus aromas. Soft acid.
It's fresh, clean wine.

Caves Bailly-Lapierre Bourgogne Aligoté 2016
Nectar-like fruit of apple and peach.
Lean, light bodied wine with smooth texture.

Domaine Manuel Oliver Bourgogne Aligoté 2016
Acacia, jasmine, ripe citrus and peach.
High minerality, almost saline.


Domaine Pierre-Louis et Jean-Francois Bersan Bourgogne Aligoté 2015
Aromas of green apple and pear.
Delicate wine with soft texture.

Maison Louis Jadot Bouzeron 2015
Aligote aged in new oak.
Fresh Asian pear, hazelnut, smoke and cedar. Refreshing acid.

Domaine Les Champs de Themis Les Corcelles Bouzeron 2016
White flower, pear, peach and apple.
Round texture with long finish.

Bouzeron is a village in Cote Chalonnaise, only village appellation made from Aligoté.

There is a reason that Chardonnay is the principal grape of white Burgundy. It's harder to find good Aligoté than good Chardonnay. 
My first positive encounter with Aligoté was when it was recommended at Kermit Lynch (importer/retailer) some years ago. It was strikingly lovable. I immediately went back to the store to get more but it was already sold out. The wine was that good.
So, the best way to find good Aligoté is to ask wine shops. Or, find one of the bottles I tasted this day. These are all good, aromatic wine with body and soft acid, and good food wine, especially with seafood and vegetables.

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